In this area I'll try to tell you some of the things I have learned that apply
to trapping in general. I will also do a section on each of the furbearers I
have gained knowledge in trapping.
More practical stuff
First of all I highly recommend that you modify and tune
all of your traps.
Second I also recommend that you dye and wax all of
your traps.
Third go scout your area before the season starts.
Placing your socks up over your pants will prevent your pants from sliding up
your leg when you put on hip boots. Also work with long-johns.
Wearing a ball cap as opposed to a knit stocking hat will keep you from getting
it snagged off your head by briars, and also protect your face from limbs.
Carry a roll of duct tape in your truck, in the event of a hole in your boot,
dry the boot as well as you can and put tape on both sides. It'll hold till
you get home.
If you do any trapping before first light buy a headlamp. It will more than
pay for itself in the first week of the season. Flashlights are to awkward to
remake sets with, plus headlamps have more candlepower.
If you do alot of skinning (hopefully) try to have 2 skinning knifes sharp and
ready. This will save you time and holes.
An old Army field jacket makes a wonderful trapping coat. It is semi waterproof,
has a hood, is warm and has four very large pockets to store lures, ammo,
notebook, etc in.
Coon Trapping
Are you in a hurry coon trapping? Place your drag so that all you have to do
is look over the edge of the bridge or ditch to see if it is moved.
Place your coni-boxes just under the bridge. That way looking straight down,
nobody can see it, but if you lean out a bit and look under you'll be able to.
If a coon gets caught and takes your drag, and you can't find it try one of
these 4 ideas:
Look downstream, most coon tend to run downstream when caught.
If trapping a large stream(up to 30-40 feet across) look across the stream.
If it's still dark out, try shining your light slowly in a circle, looking for
reflections.
If you used a light drag or grapple look up in the surrounding trees. If none of these work go look under and in the nearest thorn bush.
Don't use to big of a wooden drag for coon sets, otherwise the coon may decide
to take a boat ride downstream on it. (My partner and I once found a coon 1/2
mile from where he was caught.)
If in an area where beaver are present don't use any green wood for drags.
Try to get a coon to look up at you when dispatching it. The raccoon's brain
lies very high in the skull above the eyes. Imagine a line drawn between the
eyes, now aim just above that line.
Cheap fish flavored cat food works well for coon bait in a pinch as does Jack
Mackeral.
Canine Trapping
If you use a rock as a backing for a fox set make sure of 3 things:
1. That the canine can't knock it aside easily, or they will and take your bait.
2. That it is flat on one side or it may roll if the canine scratches at it.
3. That once caught the canine can knock it out of the way. If not you run the
risk of the canine breaking its leg.
If you use a rock try to use either a white or orange colored one for more eye
appeal.
A chunk or burnt wood makes a great backing or post for a set.
If you catch a female during the mating season (Late Jan-early Feb), pull some
of the hairs from around her anus and vagina and place in the remake hole.
